by DAN JONDRON

Special to the Sounder

In the recently published book, “Steak, One Man’s Search for the World’s Tastiest Piece of Beef,” (Viking Penguin Books, published 2010) author Mark Schatzker searched the world and found Lopez Island’s Sweet Grass Farm’s beef to be among the best beef on earth. The farm is owned by Scott Meyers.

“Grass-fed black Wagyu was something I’d been searching for ever since the trip to Matsusaka, Japan.” says Schatzker in “Steak.” “All I found were rumors. No one had ever seen actual grass-fed black Wagyu grazing. No one had tasted their meat, and then one day Sweet Grass Farm popped up on a Google search. I called and Scott was kind enough to send some steaks.”

Schatzker provides these tasting notes: “A beef so intense it nearly qualifies as an out of body experience. And yet it’s tender, soft, supple and so fine your steak knife feels like its cutting satin.”

Schatzker is a true “foodie” who has a passion for steak akin to the attachment an oenophile has for a great bottle of wine. Schatzker writes a weekly column for the “Toronto Globe” and “Mail” and is a frequent contributor to “Conde Nast Traveler” and other publications. “Steak” is his first book.

“Mark’s recognition is very much appreciated” says Meyers. “It’s been a bit of a mixed blessing because we’re a small producer of Wagyu (Kobe) beef. Our October harvest is half sold out and we only sell in our local region. Still, it’s a great problem to have!”

I asked Meyers what went into producing the best beef in the land.

“The Wagyu breed produces the best tasting beef in the world, so that’s a big part of it,” he said. “Grass-fed beef producers are really grass farmers who balance the natural environment, the climate and even the relationship between the farmer and cattle. Every link in the chain is essential.”

Meyers’ farming methods are as much a philosophy as a management system. They include not only raising excellent beef, but also preserving the environment, working closely with other farmers and being involved in our community.

Meyers is on the Board of Directors for the Island Grown Farmer’s Cooperative whose packing facility has made meat farming in San Juan County possible. Meyers also provides tours for organic farming students at local colleges and works closely with conservation organizations.

For more information about Sweet Grass Farms, visit www.sgfbeef.com or call Meyers at 360-468-4450.